Malbec is one of the six
grape varieties allowed in the blend of Bordeaux red wine. It was a major contributor to the blends of
Bordeaux until the devastating frost of 1956 which killed close to three
quarters of the Malbec vines in Bordeaux.
This susceptibility to frost was the leading reason Malbec wasn’t
replanted. Malbec has dwindled in
popularity and now represents less than one percent of the total red grapes
grown in Bordeaux.
One must look to the
western hemisphere to find today’s leader in Malbec production, Argentina. Argentina grows over ten times the amount of
Malbec than does France. Argentina
boasts over 87,000 acres of Malbec while France has 7,500 acres of Malbec under
cultivation mostly in the Cahors region in the southeast.
In Argentina elevation
plays a major role in the success of Malbec.
Most of Argentina’s Malbec vineyards are located between 2,000 and 5,000
feet above sea level. The theory for the
Argentine success with this variety is that the sun’s rays travel a shorter
distant through the earth’s atmosphere before they come upon the vineyards in
Argentina. It is suggested that the
intensity of the sun develops more pigmentation and flavor in the grapes, which
translates to a richer, more substantial wine.
Given my unsuccessful efforts with Malbec grown on the floor of the San
Joaquin valley I am inclined to agree. The
influence of elevation is the reason we source our Malbec from Ken Buchert’s
vineyard in Fairplay at 2,400 feet.
While our efforts aren’t as dark as some Argentine wines, they are
sturdy examples of the wines capable of coming from this variety.
