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Dorado Canyon Vineyard, El Dorado County
TASTING NOTES:
The 2023 Malbec has a gloriously beautiful magenta-ruby color. The depth of color while not inky is substantial and the hues are a perfect shade of purple without a trace of carmine. Aromas of blackberry, pomegranate, wood smoke, and roasted meat are joined by a significant dose of deeply toasted oak. An earthen note of cumin also contributes to the bouquet. On the palate briary ripe mulberry fruit rides on a rich creamy texture leading to an earthen pomegranate finish. A dry aged rib eye steak slathered in olive oil and sprinkled with Montreal steak seasoning then grilled over red hot oak embers accompanied by a bottle of Dorado Canyon Malbec and you have a recipe for one happy camper. Malbec is part of the reason why Argentines are the world’s leading consumers of beef at 105# per capita per year.
TECHNICAL NOTES:
Malbec is one of the six grape varieties allowed in the blend of Bordeaux red wine. It was a major contributor to the blends of Bordeaux until the devastating frost of 1956 which killed close to three quarters of the Malbec vines in Bordeaux. This susceptibility to frost was the leading reason Malbec wasn’t replanted. Malbec has dwindled in popularity and now represents less than one percent of the total red grapes grown in Bordeaux.
One must look to the western hemisphere to find today’s leader in Malbec production, Argentina. Argentina grows over ten times the amount of Malbec than does France. Argentina boasts over 87,000 acres of Malbec while France has 7,500 acres of Malbec under cultivation mostly in the Cahors region in the southeast.
In Argentina elevation plays a major role in the success of Malbec. Most of Argentina’s Malbec vineyards are located between 2,000 and 5,000 feet above sea level. The theory for the Argentine success with this variety is that the sun’s rays travel a shorter distant through the earth’s atmosphere before they come upon the vineyards in Argentina. It is suggested that the intensity of the sun develops more pigmentation and flavor in the grapes, which translates to a richer, more substantial wine. Given my unsuccessful efforts with Malbec grown on the floor of the San Joaquin valley I am inclined to agree. The influence of elevation is the reason we source our Malbec from Ken Buchert’s vineyard in Fairplay at 2,400 feet. While our efforts aren’t as dark as some Argentine wines, they are sturdy examples of the wines capable of coming from this variety.
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