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Pinot Noir is renowned for its light color. The reason for this is that the Pinot Noir grape does not contain acylated anthocyanins, a stable form of anthocyanins which are responsible for most all the pigmentation found in red grapes. Whenever I come across a densely colored Pinot Noir, I can’t help but suspect some other grape or wine has been included.
Pinot Noir is responsible for some of the most expensive and written-about wines in the world. While many grape varieties have seen success in regions outside of their native appellations, Pinot Noir has resisted efforts to replicate the wines of Burgundy elsewhere. The challenge to do so is formidable. Pinot Noir is considered the most expressive of all grapes. It will take on the flavor of its site to a greater degree than most other varieties. When Cabernet is grown in a variety of locations, the wines will most assuredly be different, but they have similar characteristics and will express the Cabernet Sauvignon varietal character. Pinot Noir, on the other hand, has no single recognizable flavor or style. It is known to vary so dramatically from site to site that an element of flavor common to all is elusive--some say nonexistent. While most grapes take on the flavor and style of the winemaker, Pinot Noir expresses the terroir in which it is grown. Pinot Noir is also highly susceptible to clonal variation, which further enhances the diversity of flavors coming from this grape. To attempt to replicate the great Pinot Noirs of Burgundy is folly. I have found a certain satisfaction in crafting wines from Pinot Noir that reflect the region in which the grapes are grown.
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